Big Spencer Mountain

Location: Piscataquis County, Maine

Season Visited: Summer

Trail Length: 4 miles there-and-back

Time to Hike: 3-4 hours

Difficulty: Moderately strenuous

Big Spencer Mountain is an exciting hike near Greenville, Maine. My husband and I arrived there via the dirt roads past Kokadjo, and if you know anything about those roads you know they are notoriously labyrinthine and strange, with next-to-no helpful road signs and gigantic logging trucks that come barreling toward you out of nowhere. To me, the mountain's remoteness is part of its charm, evoking a bygone era of exploration that is usually hard to recapture on the east coast. I am in love with this area of Maine and was dying to summit Big Spencer, which I had been staring at from across Moosehead Lake on vacation for many years. Seeing pictures of the old ladders on the internet piqued my interest.

The hike features a steep ascent pretty much the entire way. The first half of the ascent is on a woods road that isn't too difficult, but the second half is exceptionally rocky, featuring a few small boulder scrambles and the fun (scary) ladders. Before the start of the rocky section there is a clearing with nice views and a fire pit.

Woods trail ascent.

Clearing.

Ladder.

There are occasional views through the trees in the rocky section, and near the summit there are wild blueberries.

The summit features some impressive views, but there is also communication equipment up there that mars the general aura. But there is a nice little platform to rest!

View from the summit.

The way back down is the same as going up. I walked ahead of Sean for awhile and had an amazing experience seeing an entire family of ruffed grouse cross the trail right in front of me. A mother was leading a huge number of chicks, something like 10 of them if I remember correctly. They were so close to me that I didn't dare take out the camera to capture them, although I've always regretted not be able to do so. I froze and watched them for a good two minutes until they were out of sight. Moments like that always remind me why I love to hike. These moments in nature are the closest we get to experiencing something like magic.

Overall I absolutely recommend this hike to the experienced hiker. It is certainly a strenuous hike, and the hike down the rocky terrain is a bit treacherous. As far as solitude is concerned this mountain is amazing. Sean and I did not see one other person during the hike. Having an entire mountain to yourself is a dream come true for the hiker who wants to avoid seeing other hikers! Even in peak season the mountain was clear (although it was a week day). If you ever find yourself in this region of Maine, I suggest asking for directions in the outdoor shop in Greenville as their information about the roads will be the most up-to-date. Get out there and happy hiking!

Indian Trail

Location: Mount Kineo, Moosehead Lake, Maine
Season Visited: Summer
Trail Length: 1.8 miles from the base of the trail to the summit of Mount Kineo and back.  Add .8 miles to get to and from the trail head, making the trip a total of 2.6 miles.
Time to Hike: 2 hours
Difficulty Level: 4

Mount Kineo is a wonderful hike.  Nestled in the Northwest of Maine, this geological wonder is as historic as it is dramatic.  Thoreau hiked here in his exploration of the Maine woods, and I love knowing that I am following in his footsteps when I make the climb up Indian Trail.

There is more than one trail around Kineo, but it's generally accepted that Indian Trail is the best.  This trail is difficult - in a good way - and offers views that can only be described as spectacular.

Mount Kineo is only accessible by water.  A ferry in Rockwood takes you to the dock by the Kineo golf course for a fee of $10 per person.  It's worth it.  To find the boat launch, just drive to the town of Rockwood (15 miles northwest of Greenville) and follow signs for the landing.

Kineo from the Rockwood boat launch.

Once you've arrived at Kineo, you'll see the mountain looming right in front of you.  To your right is a golf club and to your left is Carriage Trail.  Take this trail for about .4 miles, which leads you to Indian Trail.

Chipmunk on Carriage Trail, pretending that it's a statue.

Looking up the mountain from Carriage Trail.

Look out for the sign for Indian Trail, and then start climbing!

The trail is steep and rocky from the very beginning.  Be prepared!

It won't be long before you start coming to lovely viewpoints.

There is a rock scramble at one point.  Have fun!

My sisters at the top of the scramble.

Looking southeast.  Golf club in view.

This is a nice clearing to stop at for lunch or a snack.

After this clearing you'll head back into the woods.  Views will be scarce at this point until you come to the highlight of the hike: the fire tower.

From the fire tower you will see miles and miles of absolutely beautiful woodland scenery.  Enjoy it.

The way back down is much easier than the way up (although there are some sections where you're briefly going up instead of down).  Most of the time you are simply re-tracing your steps, although you will come to a fork in the trail at one point that you may not have noticed on the way up.  This is Bridle Trail.  If you go left you will continue the way you came, but going right will also take you back down the mountain.  I've gone both ways and don't really have a preference, unless it's for Bridle Trail simply because it's something different.  If you're feeling very tired, you might want to just take Bridle Trail because it is relatively easier.  Either way, the hike down is lovely.

Find your way to the bottom and follow Carriage Trail back the way you came.

After hiking Kineo, you are bound to feel amazing (and also, more than likely, a little tired).  Enjoy the splendor of the mountain and nature around you, and don't forget all those who came before you who have also been drawn to Kineo.  Keep wandering, and enjoy your hike.

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