Monday, January 19, 2015

Overall Run and Beecher Ridge

Location: Shenandoah National Park, VA
Season Visited: Fall
Trail Length: 12 miles (about six miles each day for two days)
Time to Hike: 2 days
Difficulty Level: Day 1 - 4.  Day 2 - 5.

I successfully completed my first solo backpacking trip back in October in - where else? - beautiful Shenandoah National Park!  Well, my dog was with me, but I was the only human :P  It was a wonderful time, and the fall colors were absolutely gorgeous the third week of October.  I couldn't have asked for better weather (with the exception of one brief little drizzle), though it was very cold!  If there's one thing you should never underestimate about Shenandoah, it's how cold the mountain air is at night.  The park was buzzing with activity as everyone and their mother admired the colors of the leaves.  I went again in November - a post hopefully coming soon - and the difference was alarming.  The place was a zoo in October, but that didn't stop me from experiencing lovely solitude during the evening and most of my second day of hiking.

The trail starts at Hogback Overlook on Skyline Drive, as seen on this map.  I arrived at the parking area (described here in the itinerary I followed) around 10:30 on a Saturday, and I almost didn't find a spot.  I basically had to shimmy my little car between a truck and a tree to be able to park there.  You've been warned - parking is insane in Shenandoah in October.

After that, however, the trip was a breeze.  If you plan to do it, first start hiking the Appalachian Trail for 0.4 miles.

Cleo and I starting out on the AT.  Nice level terrain to start with.

You then turn right on the Tuscarora/Overall Run Trail.  All trails in Shenandoah are clearly marked and I've never had a problem.  Just follow the sign posts and you'll be fine.  The map and itinerary posted above are adequate to help you along.

Tuscarora/Overall Run Trail is very lovely, and both the woods and waterfalls are sure to please.  The first waterfall you come across is a 29-foot cascade, though you do have to descend a steep side trail if you want to reach the base of it.  I'm calling it a side trail, but really there isn't much trail at all.  I managed it with Cleo, but it did test our human-dog coordination skills!








Base of the cascade.

The climb back up to the main trail.  You kind of just have to make your own way.


After this cascade comes what is probably the true highlight of the trip: a gorgeous view of Shenandoah Valley and a look at the highest waterfall in the park - 93-foot Overall Run Falls.  There are lots of fun rocks and crags to play around - just don't fall!



Overall Run Falls.

Shenandoah Valley.

Victory!


Sweeping panoramic view.

After this majestic view is a section of steep downhill navigation.  It's not too much of a challenge, unless you have trouble with downhill hiking, as some people do.  All I can say is that I'm glad I wasn't going the other way.  Some people were, and I really felt for them!

Going down.  Further down it became rockier.



At the bottom you are greeted with a gorgeous forest floor, Stay to the left when the trail splits and you come to another lovely cascade, not marked on the map.  Just a little further on from here is where you will find comfortable, level camping spots to sleep for the night, still on Overall Run Trail.  I stayed near the brook, listening to the water in the evening and collecting my drinking water from it the next day.  Pleasant dreams!





Cascade near camp.


Water near the campsite.

Camp Sweet Camp!

Attempted to fill my camelback from this little waterfall the next day.  Not as easy as I thought it was going to be!  Hopefully it will be easier when I get my hands on a real water filter... soon, I hope!

And so begins your second day.  I definitely worked up a sweat on day one, but nothing prepared me for day two.  The itinerary made no mention of the fact that the second day is basically five miles of rather steep uphill climbing, pretty much nonstop.  My lack of knowledge was, of course, my own fault.  Because the park provides free maps online, I use those instead of breaking down and paying the 15 bucks or so that would get me a real, topographical map.  I therefore have no clue what type of elevation gain I'm getting myself into unless specifically mentioned by the itinerary.  Again, I admit full responsibility here.  Even more so, since I'm not too stupid to realize that most hikes that start from Skyline Drive go down since the Drive covers ridge lines at high elevation... and what goes down must come up.  Despite all this, I really was not prepared for the difficulty level of the second day.  It's uphill.  It's steep.  And it takes a while.  If you go, be mentally and physically prepared.

Early morning climb.



The second day of the hike also involves many trail changes.  Be alert, follow the itinerary and map, and you will be fine!

Ultimately, this hike was really nice, especially on the first day.  I wouldn't do it again without being in much better shape due to the difficulty of day two, but I am so glad I made the trek.

My first solo hike was fun, challenging, and filled with great views and adventure.  If you are a solo female hiker, please know that you should do everything in your power to get outside.  If you are like me, you are constantly being discouraged, almost entirely due to your gender.  I have been told by multiple people that, given my actions, it would be my own fault if I was murdered or raped.  These people are often close to me, the people who are supposed to encourage me and nurture my dreams.  Oddly enough, a lot of my encouragement comes from strangers I meet on the trail, who tell me how awesome they think it is that I hike alone as a female.  It feels good to be called brave, ballsy, and badass (all things I have been called on the trail), but what I really hope for is the day when a female hiking alone is commonplace, and no one doubts her ability or safety purely because of her sex.

Ladies, be prepared and don't be scared.  Trust your instincts and have a plan of action for if something does happen to go wrong.  Don't give in to fear.  YOU are the only thing standing in the way of your dreams.

Keep on wandering.

Monday, June 23, 2014

Hewitt Butler Trail to the Stone Living Room (and a little AT)

Location: Norvin Green State Forest, Bloomingdale, NJ (Hewitt Butler Trail) and Wawayanda State Park, Hewitt, NJ (AT)
Season Visited: Summer
Trail Length: According to the official website, Hewitt Butler Trail is 5.5 miles.  If you're just going to the Stone Living Room, I estimate the distance to be 1.5 miles, there-and-back.  This is nothing more than an estimate based on my hiking time.  It could be a little less.  The section of the AT mentioned is about 1 mile there-and-back, estimated.
Time to Hike: 1 hour for the Hewitt Butler Trail, 30 minutes for this small section of the AT.
Difficulty Level: Hewitt Butler Trail to Stone Living Room - 3; AT - 1.

My sister Sara and I went on a summer solstice hiking trip this past weekend to New Jersey's own Stonehenge, the mysterious Stone Living Room.  This legendary site of Weird NJ fame has been on my sister's bucket list since we first lost ourselves in the sacred pages of our hardcover Weird NJ book, so we decided to make like pagans and worship the sun at the ancient shrine built by unknown stonemasons that has been overlooking a perfect view since maybe the 1990s (no one seems to know for sure when it was built).  This was more difficult than it sounds, because there are no clear directions to the trailhead.  After much internet research on shady-looking websites, my sister and I set GPS coordinates to somewhere along Glenwild Avenue and went from there, knowing that we had to look for a blue sign that said "Welcome to Bloomingdale" and then cross the street to find the blue blazes.  Fortunately we made it just fine, and the result was a very rewarding trip to this awesome "living room."

If you plan to make this trip, know that parking is limited.  Also, be sure to cross the street from the parking area where the Welcome to Bloomingdale sign is.  We saw a number of people go down the wrong trail looking for the Stone Living Room before we ourselves found out where we were.  You are looking for blue blazes on a narrow, rocky trail that almost immediately goes uphill.

Cleo the hiking yorkie-poo is ready for more adventures this summer!

Once you've navigated parking and finding the trail, the lovely surroundings should help you to forget the madness you just endured.  As I have found is typical amongst North Jersey trails, they are really rocky and surprisingly beautiful for being in the part of the state that gives Jersey a bad name.  You will see interesting boulder formations and maybe even some wildlife in the initial forested section of the trail.

Gypsy moth caterpillar.

Boulders.


It was hotter than expected, and we worked up a sweat!

Soon the forest gives way to boulders and lovely views.



A little ways past these cairns is the Living Room!  You have to look off-trail, a little to the right I l believe, so be sure to keep your eyes open so you don't miss it!  I read a few accounts on the internet of people passing it, but you really shouldn't have a problem as long as you're looking.

View from the Stone Living Room, with half of the Living Room shown to the side.



The complete set of chairs.

The armchair/throne.


Nothing is forever.





Be sure to spend as much time as you want enjoying the chairs and the view.  There's a fire pit here (with lots of beer bottles in it), but it's probably less-than-wise (and maybe also illegal) to build a fire.  Still, this is a great place for lunch!

All that's left to do when you're done, of course, is to head back down!  It's an easy descent, just watch for toe-stubbing rocks.



This could be the end of your hiking adventure, or you could do what Sara and I did and head to the Appalachian Trail.  It's all over the place up here, but I headed 30 minutes to Wawayanda State Park due to my familiarity with the trail there.  Parking for this particular section is on Warwick Turnpike around these GPS coordinates: N41.12054, W74.23298.  There is a little more roadside parking here and it's not quite as popular, so you should be fine arriving any time of day.  The AT is on both sides of the road, so make sure you're going south-bound if you plan to camp where we did.  If you're coming from Bloomingdale, this will be on the left side of the road.

The trail starts out grassy and flat, then crosses next to Parker Lake before coming to the AT shelter in Wawayanda State Park.  There are lots of places to camp here, which is another reason why I chose this location.  There were some thru-hikers near the shelter, so my sister and I camped on the other side of the trail, opposite the shelter but still within walking distance of the privy (which we discovered only after we peed in the woods, conveniently).  Overall it's a very nice little place to spend the night, although you can still occasionally hear cars and jets (and, on this particular night, also fireworks/gunshots?).  It's super easy to get to, and you can walk a little before calling it a night and see the sights or talk to the other hikers who congregate here.

AT south-bound, right off the road.

Midday nap with the Cleo <3

The shelter is off to the right side of the trail.  We passed by it at first and then noticed the blue shelter signs.

After setting up camp, we came back to look at Parker Lake.





"I'm ready to sit, Mommy."

A little after the shelter, when we stopped our evening walk and decided to go back to camp.

Summer solstice sun setting.

Salamander at camp!

And that's it!  Head back in the morning and reflect on your time at an ancient(ish), sacred (not really) stone monument and your time on the trail dreams are made of.  Enjoy it, and keep wandering.